Ernesto Soriano, the top ham cutter for one of Spain’s most prestigious cured ham producers, took center stage at the Madrid Open tennis tournament, where he carved prized legs of acorn-fed iberian ham for hundreds of privileged guests. Recently promoted to the company’s leading cutter, he oversaw a team responsible for slicing and plating more than a dozen heavy hams each day while also explaining their origins and tasting notes to diners. The high-profile assignment marked a significant milestone in a career built on precision, endurance and devotion to his craft.

Cured ham holds deep historical and cultural significance in Spain, with roots stretching back thousands of years. Once entangled with religious identity and politics, it is now a symbol of national pride and a thriving export. As its prestige has grown, so too has the status of master carvers like Soriano, who are now fixtures at elite weddings, museums and luxury events where rare vintages can command astonishing prices.

Soriano began carving as a teenager in a neighborhood delicatessen in Madrid, gradually refining his technique under demanding mentors and rising through the ranks over more than a decade with his current company. Despite injuries from years of physical strain, he remains focused on drawing out the subtle textures and flavors of each leg. For Soriano, the true star is not the carver but the ham itself, and he prefers the rhythm of slicing to the spotlight of acclaim.